Specialty Invades Dixie
Southern states create their own coffee scene
by Kevin Tuttle

As I sit at one of my favorite coffee spots (Fillmore Coffeehouse in Atlanta) enjoying a great cup of Grand Bolivian, I can't help but recall the not-so-distant past when it was hard to find a really good cup of coffee in north Atlanta. Heck, it was hard to find a good cup anywhere in the southeast. This clearly is not the Pacific Northwest ... yet. Just four or five years ago, there were only a handful of independent coffee shops in the South, and they served "gourmet" coffee, which most likely meant that it was flavored. Cinnamon Bun medium roast, anyone?

A lot has changed since then. A true specialty coffee culture is emerging in Atlanta and the entire southeast. It appears to be entering early adolescence, a bit awkward at times, but really wanting to explore all that the world has to offer. Coffee roasters are sourcing more high-quality, single-origin and single-estate beans. They are listening to their palates and letting the bean determine the roast to unlock all that is pleasant and wonderful about coffee. Gone are the days of roasting everything dark, for what makes that specialty?

The Southern palate is quickly awakening to lighter roasts that highlight fantastic flavors such as juicy fruits, florals, honey and nutty notes. Because lighter roasts can also highlight defects or poor-quality beans, roasters in turn must source higher-quality coffee.

Growing awareness of specialty coffee in the southeast is fertilizing the region's coffee culture. The factors are at once complex and basic: First is the greater awareness and availability of better-quality coffees and allied products; second is a growing passion for excellence in the cup and community in the walls of our coffeehouses; lastly, consumers are increasingly coffee-literate, and thus demanding a better cup with a bigger cause.

As we dig a little deeper, the "first notes" of the southeast's burgeoning coffee culture are the increasing quality of coffees and allied products available to retailers. For the incredible beans, we can thank those dedicated coffee roasters and green buyers who search the world to find the best of the best. No longer is this done from the comfort of an office, but on the fields and plantations of the world. No, this isn't the safest or most comfortable job, but the reward is that sweet nectar of the bean in the cup. Allied manufacturers are following suit, producing higher-quality products to enhance the bean. Yes, the menus of our favorite coffee shops have expanded over the years to include chai, mate and frozen drinks. The quest is to provide a selection that encompasses the diverse palates of those who are making coffeehouses go-to spots in their communities for meetings, socializing or relaxing.

One such place is Coffee Underground in Greenville, S.C., which sits below street level. It has consistently been voted one of Greenville's best coffeehouses, providing a laid-back and comfortable atmosphere for customers, as well as extremely consistent fare from behind the counter. Owner Dana Lowie has made coffee and people her passion—and it shows, as she knows most customers by name. She also spends hours roasting her house blends that can only be found at Coffee Underground.

The southeast's "middle notes" are the increasing awareness of specialty coffee in the region. Trade shows and conferences such as Coffee Fest and the SCAA Conference & Exhibition have made stops in Atlanta in recent years (with the SCAA show coming back to Atlanta in April), providing hands-on workshops and lectures for roasters and retailers. Showing people what is required to successfully open and run a coffee business has been the push some have needed to pursue their dreams of creating a place of community and comfort in their hometown.

In addition to large conferences, the southeast has also hosted barista jams and competitions, providing denizens with hands-on opportunities and springboards for creative flair and specialty-coffee awareness. These small, local events are becoming more common, bringing competition, fun and education to those on both sides of the coffee bar. One example is the Thursday Night Throwdown at Octane Coffee Bar & Lounge in Atlanta. What started as an impromptu latte art competition among baristas has grown into a weekly event that has drawn people from as far away as Birmingham, Ala.

In the last five years, Octane Coffee has become an icon of sorts for coffee purists. Co-owner Tony Riffel has taken what started as a hip coffeehouse and grown it into a destination for those who appreciate great coffee. "At Octane, we French press all of our daily coffees," he says. "We offer a single-origin French press of the day along with a menu of different single-origin French press options. Behind the bar, only Octane-certified baristas are allowed to make drinks for customers. We have our own in-house certification program that baristas must go through, which includes practical, written and mock competition testing." When asked how the coffee culture has changed over the past four years, Riffel responds without hesitation: "We have seen the coffee culture grow and develop a great deal. There have been a lot of great people experimenting and pushing the limits of how coffee is prepared and served. We now see a growing interest from the consumers who are seeking out a better and better cup. The bar has been raised, and suddenly this beverage that has been around forever is getting a lot of attention and focus on improvement, from the farm to the preparation in the cup."

The presence of large coffeehouse chains and the marketing they've done is paying off for the southeast's independent specialty coffee professionals and consumers, too. No longer are customers simply asking for a "medium" or "dark" roast. It is becoming more common to hear requests for a favorite region or even a particular estate. Though blends have their rightful place, incredible single-origins are gaining a stronghold on our palates. And as consumers hear the stories behind these coffees—and a connection is made between the heart, the head and the taste buds—it's a lock! We then find ourselves looking forward to the latest harvest from our favorite estates and co-ops around the world. A bond is created, a loyalty to that coffee and the people responsible for it.

Broad River Coffee Company is a success story out of Boiling Springs, N.C. Though Boiling Springs' population is only 7,000 (half of whom are students at Gardner-Webb University), owner Seth Stevens has grown Broad River from one location to three in eight years. As specialty coffee takes hold in the southeast, one might wonder how an eight-year veteran of the region has seen his customer base evolve. "At first, our customers were primarily college students with limited espresso knowledge," says Stevens. "As we have developed our brand, we have attracted a more varied customer base that really demands very good-quality coffee from varying regions of the world. The retail coffee landscape has become much more competitive, more socially conscious, and because of this a much higher quality of coffee has emerged in the southeast. Customers not only demand quality in the cup but also a cup with a conscience. Coffee shops now must care about their beans from the source to the cup." With awareness and demand increasing, Stevens has learned to balance his roles as shop owner and roastmaster, striving to ensure that the best-quality beans he can source are expertly roasted, brewed and served.

The "finishing notes" in the southeast's cup are the customers who keep coming back to fuel, finance and enjoy the growing coffee culture. Throughout the region, you will find shop owners who say that their regular customers are quickly developing a taste and passion for a new and better experience in their cup. Morning, noon or night, people care about the product they are experiencing.

Laura Randall, owner of The Serene Bean in downtown historic Woodstock, Ga., has been in the coffee business just over four years, during which she has experienced "a shift to quality versus just serving whatever crap you can find," she says. "There is an appreciation for good coffee. People are realizing there is more to good coffee than just coffee. Customers are starting to learn about coffee and become interested in specific origin coffees. ... Connoisseurs are starting to sprout up. After being in the dark for a while, people's perception has changed. Customers are beginning to understand that good coffee isn't supposed to taste burnt." To help build this awareness and to continually educate her customers, Randall hosts a coffee cupping each month. "It is open to anyone who would like to attend. This builds awareness and a palate for different coffees. Now customers look forward to a new coffee being introduced each month. They enjoy learning about the origin of the coffee, and it demonstrates what specialty coffee really should be." When asked what makes The Serene Bean unique, Randall says, "It's the atmosphere and the personal relationship with the customers. We are 'Cheers' without the beer. Being downtown, we can connect with the community and make them part of the family. We get core repeat customers, which are the regulars."

Another trend beginning to take hold in the southeast is coffee drive-thrus—already a common site throughout the Pacific Northwest and down the West coast. It appears that South Carolina is leading the way, with several small independent chains cropping up. Liquid Highway, Bella Latte and Brick House Coffee can be found throughout the Greenville/Spartanburg area. Each offers its own selection of hot and frozen drinks, but what differentiates them are their individual espresso roasts and drip coffees. Even at the drive-thrus, you will hear about the quality of the coffee in the cup. It's becoming a point of passion for their customers as well.

This is not the southeast coffee culture of five years ago, and it's growing quickly. When you ask coffee shop owners what the future may hold for coffee in the southeast, most say there will be continued growth for independent coffeehouses, with continued commitment to quality and to building coffee awareness and education. Growth starts with smart business practices. It's a pretty basic concept, but if you're not making money, you're a charity. Added to this is Southern hospitality at its finest, where coffeehouse owners are partnering with other like-minded owners. Going it alone may seem like the smart, competitive move, but the benefits of working together can outweigh perceived advantages to competitive isolation. Riffel of Octane puts it well: "We need more interaction between shops. There is not exclusivity to skills or training—we're all in the same game, and the better we all become, the better it will be for all of us. As consumers seek out higher quality, the independent shops have a great opportunity to set themselves apart."

"Hopefully we will see more independents working together ... to build associations that build more community versus competition," adds Randall of The Serene Bean. "The goal is to build a great coffee community and work together to achieve that. Be unique and be who you are. You can't be all things to all people. Focus on what you do well and what sets you apart."

Those who are working together and focusing on great coffee in the South have come together from many paths. Shop owners such as the Riffels have spent time in more mature coffee market areas, and they have brought that passion and awareness to the South. Consumer connoisseurs have explored the country and the world, experiencing great coffee that ignited a passion that they returned home to share. As specialty coffee culture continues to grow and mature in the South, we all get the opportunity to enjoy an increasingly great cup of coffee.

 

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